
Since working on our Christmas cleaning gift pack I had taken a little time Thanksgiving Day afternoon (of course when the in-laws were over) to get caught up on some gun cleaning myself. I had been out a couple of times in the last few weeks and needed to get a couple of rifles and pistols cleaned up. I personally have one of the Super Deluxe rod and brush cleaning set just because of the variety of guns I use and I clean most of my guns on my work bench so it’s easy to leave everything setup there.
As I was cleaning, I thought this would be an excellent topic for another article because it is a very important aspect of responsible gun ownership. This being because having a dirty or fouled gun can lead to jamming, misfiring, or worse injury as you’re trying to clear loaded jammed firearm because it’s dirtier than a crack whore. Additionally, by keeping your gun clean it prevents surface rust and corrosion from ammunition. It also provides you an understanding how some of the mechanisms work together from your safety, trigger, and loading.
We’ve also had s people whom have recently purchased DPMS rifles from us and have never owned one and have asked about cleaning and maintenance. So I decided to give a quick run down on a couple of different guns. We are also preparing a post for proper break in procedures of a new firearm and hope to have it in the next week.
Safety Tips:
- Verify the Gun is unloaded (do this repeatedly using physical and visual means).
- Perform the cleaning in a ventilated area (Do this away from the wife and most of you know why, and for those of you who don’t, just don’t do it.)
- Keep live ammo and loaded magazines out of the area.
- Use surgical gloves to help keep the solvent off of your hands. (See the second bullet item above)
- DO NOT USE ANY OF YOUR WIFES GOOD TOWELS, TOOTHBRUSH, BEDSHEETS, SHIRTS OR ANYTHING ELSE THAT BELONGS TO HER FOR CLEANING OR WASHING UP AFTERWARDS. (THIS COULD RESULT IN A FATAL GUN ACCIDENT – MEANING YOU MAY NOT FIND THE PIECES BACK OR IF IT’S ASSEMBLED SEE THE THIRD BULLET ITEM ABOVE.)
1911:
The first gun is a Wilson Combat Classic 1911. This is like most standard 1911’s, with the exception of the hand fitted craftsmanship of this gun, wow. It’s impressive. I struggled with coming to grips of purchasing a $2000 Wilson Combat 1911, but it’s one of those things that once you put it in your hand you know it’s a piece of art. Regardless, it breaks down like all 1911’s.
First, I setup my cleaning area with some old t-shirts or towels, breakout my super deluxe rod set and cleaners. Next, I do is verify the gun is unloaded by operating the slide 2 or 3 times and also visually verifying it’s unloaded. Then I break down the pistol into the main pieces, spring and guide rod, barrel, slide, and frame. Sometimes I will also remove the grips as I did for this operation, but it’s not necessary. Depending on how many times I’ve been out with it I will also strip down the firing pin and extractor.

Once I have the pistol broken down into the main components I start by injecting a shot of bore foam cleaner in the breach until it comes out the bore and let it set while I clean the rest of the gun (usually 5 minutes is long enough). This allows the cleaner to break down the build up and do the work for you. When I clean the barrel, I choose a brass bore brush and run it through a couple of times forward and reverse. I will also use a brass toothbrush or standard brush along with some solvent or gun scrubber and clean the feed ramp and chamber area. After I’ve done that, I change over the cleaning tip and run several dry patches through it until it’s clean.
The frame is usually difficult to tell if you’ve gotten all the carbon out of the trigger mechanism. Here I usually use, a aerosol spray solvent, some bore patches, toothbrush, and Q-tips to clean out the magazine area, trigger and hammer mechanism, and guide rod.

During this cleaning, I disassembled the extractor and firing pin. This is done by using a punch and small flat blade screwdriver. First, press the firing pin in with a punch or screwdriver until it is depressed below the slide plate that holds it in place. The slide plate can be slid out with the fingers or using a small flat screwdriver. Be careful when doing this so the firing pin doesn’t go flying. Once you have these items out, use some spray gun scrub and some Q-tips to clean out both chambers. Put it back together the same way it came apart. Then brush down the inside of the slide with solvent and a toothbrush and use my towel to finish wiping it down.

(Authors hands shown above with power from latex gloves. Plans with the loving wife mandated I had clean hands.)
Also shown above is the first step in removing the firing pin and extractor.



Notice the carbon build up on the extractor shown above.
Wherever you see some fouling or carbon build up take a brass toothbrush or standard toothbrush and hit it some gun scrub and brush off. Prior to reassembling, I use some gun oil on the moving parts, on the slide rails of the frame and slide, on the trigger link, and on the hammer mechanism. I don’t use very much and wipe the excess off. Then I reassemble the gun and operate the slide, trigger, and hammer a few times to make sure it’s operating properly. I finish it off by wiping down the exterior metal parts with some gun preservative and dry cloth.
Glock:

Next, I took down the Glock, I just like these guns. I like to upgrade them and cleaning them is very quick and easy. So following the same safety procedure of verifying the gun is clear I proceed to disassemble the Glock.

On my Glock, I’ve installed the extended slide release so it’s easier to remove the slide. Again, I set all the parts out on a towel once I have it broken down and inject some bore cleaner and allow it to work while I clean the rest of the gun. Once I get back to the barrel, I use the proper bore brush several times forward and reverse, brush out the chamber, and use a toothbrush and solvent to clean the feed ramp and surrounding area. I then run multiple patches through until the bore is clean and finish by wiping down the exterior and feed ramp area.

Using the extended slide release is a nice feature but not imperative to overall operation.
Next, I broke down the slide by removing the firing pin and extractor pin mechanism. When removing the extractor and firing pin you need a small flat blade screwdriver to insert between the end cap and slide, which is located at the rear of the slide. The end cap it’s fitted in tight, but slides out towards the bottom of the slide when pressure is applied between it and the top of the slide.

Be careful once again that the firing pin doesn’t go flying out. Additionally the loaded gun indicator, part of the extractor, and the safety lock pin, seen on the bottom side of the slide will also fall out once the firing pin and extractor pins are removed. All of these parts go back together in only one way so you will know as you are reassembling it if it’s not correct. Since there are a few more parts in the firing and extractor mechanism, lay each piece out in a systematic order to assist in the re-assembly. After the slide is disassembled I use solvent and Q-tips to clean out the firing pin and extractor areas. Then I use a toothbrush and solvent to clean out the slide area. I then re-assemble the firing pin and extractor. (This may take a little longer on your first attempt, but by the second time, it’s very easy. Once again, this little exercise helps you understand how the parts work together which I find very fascinating. I could not design this but I understand how it works and I’m just impressed with the simplicity and ingenuity of it.)

Shown above is the firing pin and extractor chambers.

Shown above the is the extractor and extractor pin/spring.
On the frame, I use a toothbrush and solvent to clean out the magazine, trigger and inside of the frame. I then wipe it down with a towel. I then clean out the guide rod and spring with a little solvent and brush.
Prior to re-assembly, I use a little oil to lubricate the moving parts and the slide rails and wipe down the excess. I reassemble the gun and operate the slide and trigger a few times to make sure it all went back together. (However, at this point you would know if it did or didn’t). I then take some gun preservative and wipe down all metal parts.
DPMS:
I finally worked my way through a couple of other guns until I got to my Prairie Dog – Semi Automatic Sniper System (PD-SASS) DPMS rifle. A lot of people who have purchased a DPMS from us, are first time black gun or AR gun owners and usually have lots of questions on the operation, maintenance, and cleaning of the rifle.
Following safety procedures, the first thing I do is separate the lower and the upper receiver by removing both lower/upper receiver pins. Do not remove simultaneously. I usually remove the rear first and holding the barrel to prevent it from flipping downward. Next, I remove the forward receiver pin and take separate the lower from the upper.

Next, I remove the carrier release and bolt and inject the bore foam and let it sit. When I clean the bore, I usually start with the chamber brush which has two different sizes of brushes on the same brush. The first stage of the brush is for the chamber and second is for the bolt chamber. You can install this on the rod and scrub out the chamber and bolt area. I then change brushes and use the bore brush several times, forward and reverse, to scrub the bore and then run patches through it until it is clean. On the inside of the upper receiver behind the gas tube I usually spray some gun scrubber and use a Q-tip to clean around that area and finish by wiping the inside out with a towel.

There are several parts to the bolt and carrier, so when you dissemble it, lay it out in a systematic order to make it easier when reassembling it. First, take out the cotter key or pin that holds the firing pin in and let the firing pin fall out the back. Next, push the bolt in so that the cam pin is finger accessible and pull it out, then pull it out. The bolt can now be removed by pulling it out the front of the carrier assembly. Next, take a small punch and push the roll pin out of the bolt which holds the extractor and spring in place. (DO NOT USE THE FIRING PIN FOR A PUNCH. THIS IS BAD AND IS COMMENSURATE WITH USING YOUR WIFES CLOTHING ARTICLES AS A CLEANING RAG. SEE BULLET ITEMS 2 AND 3 UNDER SAFETY TIPS.)

Removing the firing pin and holding pin.

Removing the cam pin.


Once the bolt is disassembled, I use a toothbrush and some gun scrub to clean the bolt removing any carbon and build up. On the inside of the bolt carrier where the bolt is seated I use scrubber and Q-tips to clean it out and will spray gun scrub in the gas port. I do the same thing to the firing pin chamber and the entire bolt carrier.
After cleaning the bolt and carrier, I re-assemble the bolt. Prior to installing the bolt back into the carrier, I verify the three gas rings are not lined up and are spaced an equidistant apart or close to. I then place a couple of drops of oil on the narrow raised portion of the bolt and re-insert it into the carrier. I then place a little oil on the cam pin and inset it into the carrier and bolt. (The bolt is milled such that the cam pin can only go in one way so that the extractor is to the left hand side of the carrier when looking at it from the front.) I then insert the firing pin and firing pin key. I then place oil in several locations of the bolt. On the bottom, I place oil in the groves and on the top there are some flat spots near the top of near the gas port and cam pin that I oil. I then place a little oil on the carrier handle on the top and sides. I then replace bolt carrier assembly.

On the lower receiver there is very little to clean. I will take some gun scrubber and spray the trigger mechanism out and wipe it out with Q-tips. Then I place a little oil on the hammer and trigger pins.

Lower receiver shown with JP trigger & speed hammer.
I then reassemble the rifle and wipe the exterior down with preservative. I then operate the bolt a few times to verify everything.
If you have a favorite weapon that is unique in it’s cleaning requirements or have comments to how we clean out firearms that would assist others we would be glad to post your comments. We hope this information helps and if you have any questions or would like a packaged cleaning kit please contact us here at D9Firearms.
Thanks and great shooting.